Are two 4 gauge cables the same as one 2 gauge cable?
Running 2 seperate power cables is fine. In theory the current will split and each cable will carry the same amount of current. In reality, it will not be exact but it will be so friggin close that it doesn't matter!!! Yes you can run multiple cables, but two lengths of 4ga is going to cost you more than one length of 2ga. Unless you already have the stuff laying around, just get the larger cable. Besides, if you run two seperate cables, you will need to use some sort of distribution block to tie the two cables back together at the amp then have a conductor capable of carrying the current to your amp, or all your heavy cable doesn't mean squat. Less money will be spent in the long run by using one larger cable! As for how much current a size cable can carry: 14ga = 15A 12ga = 20A 10ga = 30A 8ga = 80A 6ga = 105A 4ga = 140A 2ga = 190A 1ga = 220A 1/0 = 260A 2/0 = 300A These wire ampacities are according to the NEC (National Electrical Code) and are set for wire to be used in any structure. The wire can actually carry more current than what I have listed, taking consideration that the wire is in an environment that it can be cooled or is in an open-air environment. If you run two 4ga wire to your amp, you have the ability to supply the amp with 280A of current (by multiplying 140 * 2). Do you need larger wire running to your amp? Only if you are having a voltage drop at your amp. The idea is to be able to supply the amp with 12V at its maximum current. If you run too small a wire to the amp, as you crank up the volume the ampacity of the wire will be maxed out and your 12V turns into something like 11,10,9... volts and your amp no longer amplifies your tunes.
What would happen if u run 2 amps without a distribution block?
It could blow up. But seriously once you have the proper fuses, appropriate gauge cable and good strong power and ground connections it will be fine. Installers use distribution blocks for this same reason. It's a convenient place to join multiple power cables and fuses
Calculate the current through a 10.0-m long 22 gauge (the radius is 0.321 mm) nichrome wire if it is connected to a 12.0-V battery.?
By R = ρL/A =>R = ρL/πr^2 =>R = [100 x 10^-8 x 10]/[3.14 x (0.321 x 10^-3)^2] =>R = 309.07 Ω =>By V = iR =>i = V/R = 12/309.07 =>i = 0.03883 Amp OR 38.83 mA
What gauge wire is needed for a power inverter?
I would use a minimum of 10 ga wire for this. Any smaller and if you have a constant 400 watt load going, the wire may overheat. Yes, as long as the rocker switch is energizing a 40 amp relay, you may put a rocker switch in to turn the inverter on and off. And for a 400 watt inverter, like I said, you would want a 40 amp relay. Power(wattage_ is voltage times current, so 12 volts(average) times 40 amps would be 480 watts. Also, you would want a 40 amp fuse right next to the battery in case of a short coming through the bulkhead.
How many amperes (amps) are available from a wall outlet?
(I'm talking USA specs here. I'm not a licensed electrician).I think you're asking two questions.What is the maximum amps you can draw from an outlet?(US) Standard wall outlets are usually on a breaker circuit at 15A. That'd be several outlets and maybe a ceiling light or two. Meaning you can only draw a composite maximum of 15A from all of them. This can become a problem if you turn on a bunch of lights, and then plug in your vacuum cleaner (or blender), which draws a lot of current. You may find that you need to vacuum with only one light on at a time.The 15A breaker is to protect the outlets and the wiring in the walls from overload/overheating.Some circuits in your home may be on a higher value 20A breaker. Maybe your freezer or (gas) dryer. To accommodate this, the wiring to the outlet and the outlet itself must be rated for 20A.If you have an electric stove/oven or electric dryer, it's probably “220”. In simplistic terms, it uses a double breaker and two wires to help handle the very high power requirements of these appliances.How many amps come out of the outlet?That's up to the device/appliance you plug in. It draws what it wants. A 120W light bulb would draw about 1A. A 60W, half that. My vacuum is a lot. Probably 8–10A by itself.When high current/wattage appliance kicks in, you may see your lights (all, or those on that circuit) dim slightly. That's because of the loss in the wiring in the wall. This decrease the voltage slightly, and the intensity of light bulbs is very sensitive to voltage.You may see this each time your refrigerator kicks in, or the fuses on your laser printer cycles on…Never do anything to try and overload the circuits in your home. Don't replace breakers (or fuses) with higher values. They are what they are for a reason - including “code”.P.S.One of my all time favorite movie quotes: “Mr. Mom”Michael Keaton is trying to look manly, doing some rewiring…Martin Mull: “Are you using 110 or 220?”Michael Keaton: “220, 221, whatever it takes!”
How do I know if the air conditioner servicing guy has filled in the right amount of gas in my 1.5 ton and 1 ton ACs?
well in simple language on few points you can check,1.cooling of machine.Put your hand right in front of indoor . Your hand should feel freezing.2- check your piping condition.If the pipe between indoor and outdoor get sweat then its means gas is less.these are two home method that you can do without any tool at your home.happy summer. Happy cooling.Edit 1If you see drops of water on pipeline between IDU(indoor unit) and ODU(outdoor unit) then it's a indication of gas leakage.If machine IDU make a sound at time like whisper then it's also indicate of gas leakage.Cost-Generally cost of gas charging is 4000–4500/- but I insist make negotiate to 2500–3000/-And also ask to technician to do absolute vaccum of machine and keep machine with full nitrogen pressure for atleast 3–4 hrs.By doing this even small leakge can be find out and then can rectify.Pls note- If machine have multiple leakge then cost can go on higher side as per no. of leakge.Aluminium condenser can't be rectify so only option you have to replace them.Hope this will help.
What gauge wire is needed for 240 volt 9.0 AMP 18000 BTU AC receptacle 50 ft from breaker box.?
12 guage wire would be required. Make sure you get the kind with a red insulated wire and a black insulated wire. Usually inside of a Red insulated Romex wire (which insulates all the wires), or you might use BX Cable. Just make sure there is a red and a black wire inside (and a bare copper ground wire as well). Make sure you use an outdoor disconnect box outside near the unit, mounted on the side of the house. Make sure you slide the required weather proof insulator around the wire that goes outside of the house. Shove it over top of the wire from outside and push it in through the hole in the wall going into the house (approx 1 ft inside), then just secure it to a joist with a hanger or clamp. Usually an 18000 BTU AC unit ( or also called 1.5 ton) requires a 20 amp double pole breaker, or 20 amp fuses. Make sure you dont put in a 25 or 30 amp if it only calls for 20. Look in your manual or on the name plate on the condensor (outdoor unit). Good Luck !
Is 12 gauge wire enough for a 25ft run of 220v @ 30A?
My house has a 220V/30A run for a electric dryer. Since I have a gas dryer, I extended this run by about 20-25ft into the garage using 12 gauge copper for my 220V/20A air compressor. I am looking at putting an electric heater into the garage that is rated at 220V/30A. If I do this, do I need to change the last leg of my run to 10 gauge as well, or will 12 suffice for that short distance. (This if for only one plug, meaning I will be powering only the 20A compressor OR the 30A heater, never both at the same time) Please cite your credentials when answering please.
Is it safe to plug a microwave and fridge into an extension cord?
Perfectly safe so long as you use an extension lead that conforms to your electrical code, the outlet powering the extension is suitably rated and that your maximum load does not exceed the maximum working load of either the outlet or the lead.Both a microwave and a fridge are intermittent loads. You need to make sure that the maximum load under worst case conditions is not exceeded. A fridge usually has a motorised compressor which has an inrush current of perhaps twice it’s mean rating. A microwave running on full power will use a fairly steady power but if it is using a lower setting (like defrost) will not modulate it’s power requirement, but will turn it’s magnetron on and off. It modulates average power by the mark-space ratio of the on-off time.For example, my microwave has a maximum power output of 800W. Allowing for losses and the interior light, stirring fan and control electronics, it uses 1000W of power.When running in defrost mode (average power 200W), it pulses the magnetron on for a few seconds, then off for several seconds. Although the ‘average’ power is 200W, it provides this power in short 800W bursts, thus the supply needs to be rated at 1kW no matter what is happening. Likewise my refrigerator has an average power consumption (fridge consumptions are usually averaged over 24h periods) of 175W, but when the compressor runs up, it initially draws around 600W. Because of the intermittent nature of the fridge’s operation, the average over the 24 hour period may only be 175W but it is using that power in 600W bursts.So, worst case scenario, my microwave oven is using 1kW and my fridge compressor is firing up and drawing 600W. Total instantaneous load 1600W.My electrical outlet (UK) is rated at 13A continuous at 240v, or 3120W. Perfectly safe to run both appliances from a two way extension lead rated at 3120W and fitted with a 13A fuse.