Check engine light came on during a very cold day?
It was really cold couple days ago, (6 degrees), and noticed my engine was having rough idle. It almost felt like it was going to stall if I didn't start moving (although it never did stall). I usually don't warm up the car on idle, since the manufacturer "recommends" driving the car at slow speed to warm it up during cold winter weather. I just want to know if the check engine light, the rough idle, and the cold weather are related in any way. The rough idle only happens during winters. I even took it to my mechanic couple months ago for an inspection and he recommended new spark plugs and multi-V belt which really did need to be replaced, but that didn't solve the problem. Please let me know if you have any advice. 2005 Toyota Corolla.
Why is my engine coolant light on and my coolant is full?
It is very possible your engine temperature is way up beyond the normal range. That is probably the reason why the coolant light is illuminated to call your attention…If your radiator is filled with coolant, it is possible that either water pump has failed or the water hoses are kinked or collapsed, restricting the coolant to flow!Over heating is also possible if the fan blades are not moving /turning to draw cold air and cooldown the radiator coolant… This is either a fan driven motor or a fan that is mechanically linked to the water pump?The non-rotating fan can be cause by a defective fan motor or the thermostat that controls its operation…The engine over heating can also be caused by a broken drive belt on a mechanically stalled propeller fan..Or belt driven cooling fan…
The blue cold engine light still won't turn off even after replacing the temperature sensor.?
Sometimes even if you fixed the problem you have to have the code reset. If you took it to a mechanic to get it fixed then they should have done this. But if you fixed the part yourself then you will need someone with a scanning laptop with the proper coding. Your cars(brain) doesn't know you fixed it all it knows is something is wrong because it was broke then disappeared(when you replaced the censor) and that is why the light is still on. Someone needs to connect to your car computer control system and reset it to new part.
Why did my car shake and the check engine light flash while stopped at a light?
What you experienced was almost certainly a misfire event and the cause may be recorded as a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) in the engine controller’s memory. Most failures that are significant enough to cause MIL illumination will record a trouble code and its environmental/ data information from the moment, even if the MIL is no longer lit. Onboard Diagnostics work constantly to keep the MIL off, looking for a reason to turn the CE light out if the condition hasn’t been seen again recently, eventually even erasing trouble codes if all’s good. I can only speculate on the nature of your event, but a thorough scan to retrieve codes and freeze frame data of the moment will often shed some light on the situation.Misfires come in many flavors, ranging from slight loss of performance in a single cylinder, to one or more holes being completely dead. Your description of shake at an idle implies a power imbalance, which usually involves complete loss of performance, but just one hole.Barring an at-home scanner being available, rolling the ignition key from LOCK to RUN three times, then leaving it in the RUN position at the end will initiate the customer code-read feature, spilling any matured codes stored in the PCM through the instrument cluster’s odometer window. All codes will be four digits in length, beginning with the letter P, such as P0123. DTC information can be found at OBD2-OBDII Engine Light Trouble Codes Definitions, Description and Repair Information online.One-trip failures - those that have not quite matured - will not be displayed in this feature, but will show up on a high-end scanner if present.If only a single cylinder misfire code is retrieved, pull the coil and spark plug to inspect for signs of flashover - black marks on the upper spark plug insulator and inner coil boot that will not scratch off with a fingernail. Flashover is pretty common on coil-on-plug ignition systems and the cure is to replace both the boot and spark plug together. Worn plugs tend to incite this sort of situation as spark will always seek the path of least resistance.If your DTC list includes an injector control circuit code that matches the cylinder of misfire, chances are good that the injector is at fault. The injector may test as completely normal when cooler, but will go to an open circuit once heated, either naturally or with a heat gun.
What's the point of the blue low coolant temperature light on the Nissan Versa?
A2a I would say if the warning light is lit, it is telling you there is insufficient water in the radiator . Lift your cars bonnet and look down the sides of the inner wings there will be a plastic bottle with screw lid on it. If it has a push lid that is probably your window washer bottle. On the screw lid bottle push down and unscrew anti clockwise, Do Not Do this when the car is hot , i repeat do not . If you do you are liable to get scolded. Inside and outside there should be a mark with max along side. Fill with water until it reaches the line. It could take a few pints depending how low the water level is. Never filll, beyond the mark as this is to allow the water to expand , replace cap ensuring it is tightly secured. The light should now go out . If it hasn't then you may have to go to a garage to get them to look at it . It may have a faulty sensor. If however it does go out , then if it comes on again in a short time, i.e. day or so, then you will have a leak somewhere in the cooling system. This will also need a garage. Hope this helps . Happy motoring.
What does the engine coolant temp light mean? What if it goes on and off?
Hey Charles, thanks for the A2A :)What’s it mean? Usually it means your cooling system has surpassed a set maximum temperature and your engine is overheating. The problem with most “idiot lights” is they tend to come on when it’s too late. Make sure you check your owners manual; it will tell you *exactly* what it means for your particular vehicle.Should you be worried? Yup. An overheating engine is not good. All the stuff the other guys have mentioned can all come true for you. And since all you have is a light you can’t see what the temperature is and what it’s doing.The fact the light is going on and off may be a function of the driving conditions you’re in. If it comes on while you’re slogging along in rush hour traffic and then goes out when you pick up highway speed you may have a few things going on.The cooling system my just be clogged …specifically the radiator may be clogged …and unable to handle the heat load of the engine.You may have a radiator fan that’s failed. The fan comes on when the coolant temp reaches a threshold …but one less than needed to turn on the temp light. If the fan is toast, it won’t run. If the thermo-switch that controls the fan is toast, it won’t turn on the fan. In either case the outcome can look like what you’re experiencing.The bottom line here is you need to bring your car into a good, reputable independent shop …one that does good work and stands behind it. And shops like this tend not to be the cheapest guys on the block. Or you can bring it to the dealership. Either way you need to have your ride looked at. A failing cooling system and leave you stranded at the most inopportune moments and places. Get it looked at.
The coolant light in my car is on when I turn the car on but will turn off after driving for a bit. Is that normal?
Hey Adam, thanks for the A2A :)I had a Ford Escort wagon that used to do this on me on occasion …usually with the change of season to colder weather.The coolant level in your expansion tank is low …but not low enough to keep the light on all the time.What’s happening?With the first start of the day, the coolant is cold and is at it’s smallest volume. The coolant, as it cools, draws back into the engine block from the expansion tank. In your case, the coolant level drops just below the sensor for the coolant light …and the light turns on. After you start the car, the coolant begins to warm …and expand in volume. As the coolant expands it will begin to fill the expansion tank to a point where it deactivates the sensor and thus the light on your dash goes out.I suspect if you check the expansion tank when the engine is cold …prior to the first start of the day …you’ll find it’s a bit low. Simply add the proper type of coolant or some distilled water to the expansion tank up to bring the level up to the “COLD” line on the tank. You may have to check this a few days in a row, prior to the first start, to get the coolant level stable at the “COLD” mark.
Please answer! Blue temp light on dash flashing on VW New Beetle 2002?
The temperature light that indicates a cold engine stays on for 10 miles sometimes, other times it goes off after 5 blocks as usual. Then two days ago it started flashing. (Not the red overheating light.) The manual just says "call your dealer." Well, duh...But they want $128 just to diagnose it, not even to fix it. It's not doing it tonight. But it could start again any minute. They're only going to plug in a computer which will tell which system is malfunctioning. Well, duh. Can I just order them to replace the thermostat and call it safe? What do you think? Any VW mechanics out there? Somebody please answer. It's been a day and nothing yet. Need to have some advice SOON.