What does the fan in our fireplace do?
There are two possible reasons for a fan in a fire place. The most common is as a circulating unit to help move some of the warm air into the room. With this type of fan, it is usually located at the bottom of a unit, with vent grills along the bottom, and top, on the face of the fireplace (above and below the glass doors). When the fan is turned on, if you hold a piece of tissue to the bottom vents, it should be held in place by the mild in-flow of air. This exchange helps the fireplace be more efficient at heating the room. So -- if you want to use the fireplace to heat the room, then, yes, run the fan. The fan isn't necessary though, if you just built the fire for the looks, hehehe. The second reason for a fan on a fireplace is to provide fresh air to the fireplace. This is a safety feature, so that you are not burning up the oxygen in the room...instead, you are bringing in fresh air to burn. This type of fan is usually located under the floor, or in the wall, depending on where the fresh air intake is at. If this is the type of fan you have, then, yes, it needs to be on, anytime you build a fire. Some fireplaces have both types of fan. What you need to do at this point, is determine, exactly which fan you've got. Turn it on, and check the vents on the face of the fireplace first. If it is a circulation fan, there will be some mild intake along the bottom vents. If this is a fresh air intake fan, the air will be blowing INTO the burn area... you'll need to open the doors and feel around in the firebox, or look for a vent grill, inside the unit. Have Fun
As the name suggests, switching means the sudden interruption in any circuit and surges means the overcurrent spykes that are caused in the circuit.Combined together, switching surges are the overcurrent/overvoltage spykes that are experienced in the highly inductive circuits at the time of sudden interruption I.e. switching period.As the magnetic field about the inductive conductor collapses, a brief very high voltage can be generated at that point.These switching surges can be highly dangerous for the electrical system and thus require proper control and protection devices.
Yes.How Dimmer Switches Work
An electric heater draws a lot of current, make sure the dimmer switch is rated for wattage of the heater. Furthermore, the heater often incorporates a fan. Running the fan at a lower speed may cause a premature failure of the heater elements.
Ground on gas line for fireplace?
remodling bathroom took out whirlpool tub motor had ground running under deck to pipes and also gas line from fireplace had ground wire to these pipes also can we ground the gas line some other way inside the wall what would be acceptable ground? 22 hours ago - 3 days left to answer. Additional Details we are putting in a claw foot tub, so the new plumbing will be exposed can we run this copper ground wire under the floor tile and hook it to the exposed plumbing under a floor trim cap? 22 hours ago the clamps are already there 21 hours ago resubmitting because i didn't get enough answer
Well, the most important thing is how much heat distributed in the room? A 50000 BTU’s VENTED fireplace may distribute around 10000 BTU in the room as most of the heat goes up the chimney, while 100% BTU (Heat) is distributed in the room in case of Ventless Electric Fireplaces.Now question is how much BTU produced by an Electric Fireplace and do they give off sufficient heat ?Yes , or sometimes no. Totally depends on your room size. For a small/ medium living room or bed room (up to 600 Square feet) an Electric Fireplace of 4000–5000 BTUs is quite perfect. Some manufacturers claim that these units are okay for 1000 Square Feet as well.Basically, a 110V electric fireplace produce 2600–5000 BTU’s . There are some prominent brands in the market having different heat unit. Here is a list for your help:Touchstone Onyx Wall Mounted Electric Fireplace - 5000 BTUDuraflame DFS-550-21-BLK Maxwell Electric Stove - 4600 BTUBest Choice Products Large 1500W Fireplace - 5000 BTUCurrently, there are some Quartz Electric Fireplaces having more heat ( up to 6000 BTU )This article is one of the most credible resources about electric fireplaces, you will get more info here: Best Electric Fireplace Reviews In 2017 | Complete Buyer's Guide
I see a lot of answers regarding LED lamps, however you specify that you are using halogen lamps (bulbs), so I will base my answer off of halogens.For the scope of this question, halogen lamps are very similar to incandescent lamps - a resistive load. Many newer style dimmers are manufactured specifically for the lower wattage inductive loads of CFL/LED lamps. While they “should” work well with incandescent or halogen lamps, modern dimmers often have a wattage limit much lower than their predecessor.In the U.S., prior to the rise of CFL and LED, the common household dimmer was rated at 600 Watts and worked quite well with standard bulbs. They did not work well with dimmable CFL/LED though. This led to CFL/LED rated dimmer switches. These new dimmer switches come with a caveat that they are often limited to 150 Watts.I suspect this may be your problem: Halogen lamps are inefficient and have a much higher current draw than LED/CFL. I have a feeling your dimmers may not be rated to deal with the excessive load of halogens. 2 X 100 Watt halogen lamps will easily overwhelm a newfangled 150 Watt dimmer. The wattage rating should be visible on the dimmer switch without having to remove it. You may have to remove the cover plate to see it. Once you know the switch wattage, simply add up the wattage of the halogen lamps. If it exceeds that of the switch, you have located a major problem.
There shouldn't be any safety concerns with fitting a non dimmable LED onto a circuit which has a dimmer, the main drawback to doing this however is that the light may not perform as well as if there was no dimmer in the circuit. Operating the dimmer will likely cause flickering, it may glow even when the circuit is switched off, possible noise from either the fixture if Fully-integrated or from the LED Driver if it is a Semi-integrated Fixture. It is also likely that the lifetime of the LED may be compromised.Without knowing what the LED fixture is and the details of the lighting circuit and dimmer it's difficult to provide you with a definitive answer, it is always worthwhile ensuring that the LED fixture is actually approved for use in your country by assessing the certification details which have to be provided. Most reputable manufacturers will ensure their LED fixtures are approved and provide the relevant details, however there are some untested products which still slip past without being certified which may in fact become a safety hazard. Dimmer or not, it's not worth risking your home and family with a non-certified LED fixture. I would personally recommend having the dimmer removed from the circuit if possible, however if you don't want to spend the money calling in an electrician it may be worthwhile simply buying a dimmable LED which may cost slightly more but at least you know that it has been designed to comply and last with a dimmable supply
Electric Fireplace Keeps Shutting Off?
The loud click could be an internal circuit breaker. You'd need a multimeter to verify how much power the unit is drawing, to see if it is trying to draw more amps than the circuit is designed for. Just a quick question - do you know if this unit is designed to run on a 15 amp circuit? And there shouldn't be any extension cords, or anything else on the circuit, at the same time. This could also be a problem with an internal thermostat/switch. Which means you need an electrical schematic of the unit, and know how to troubleshoot it. I'd recommend first checking the requirements of the unit (if this is a new unit, you can find it on the packaging), these can also be found on a data-plate, usually on the back of the unit. If all else fails, check the manufacturer's website - they may even have a troubleshooting guide, or a list of authorized service providers. Good Luck
Gas furnace wont heat?
If the fuse was blown the Blower would not come on ! You need to remove the furnace panel, hold the door switch in. Locate the control board and LED light. Count # of flashes. Back of panel is a fault code chart. That will point you in the right direction. Make sure if its a limit trip that the limit is round disc 2 wires and may have small red or white buttons. That will reset the limit switch and or roll out switches. Note: The furnace has to be in fail mode to read the code. When you shut the power off to the furnace totally it resets the board until the fault occurs again. And only then will the light flash. Also, if you have a thermostat that uses batteries, and they are weak and or dead then the system will not come on. Yes, if you switch the Fan to ON the fan will come on that is normal. Make sure contacts are clean on battery terminals.