Can a bad car battery cause engine misfire?
So everyone on hear that says a weak battery cannot cause a misfire is wrong especially with a Subaru!!! I recently ran into this exact same problem with my 2013 Subaru Impreza 2.0L. My car began to have a rough idle anytime I was sitting at a stop light. Then the CEL came on for a misfire in the cylinder and the dealership wanted me to do $1000 worth of work replacing the coil packs and spark plugs. I specifically asked them if a weak battery would cause the problem and they said no as well. I knew my battery was weak because I couldn't leave my car radio on for 5 min with out the battery dying. All battery tests I did said the battery was fine. Today I finally got sick of having to worry about it not starting from leaving the door open or the radio on while it wasn't running. Sure enough my check engine light turned off and now my car has greatly improved performance! Also my car now idles like it is supposed to. I'm thinking my fuel pump was not getting enough power which caused the misfiring. Either way the problem is fixed and I suggest looking into the battery first!
1997 GMC Jimmy questions, can anyone help?
If your "Check Engine Light (MIL)" is coming on again, after replacing the "02 Sensors", than you need to have the vehicle's "DTC Codes," read again. If you're not the "Do It Yourself," kind of person have your vehicle checked by a trusted mechanic or repair shop. As for the "Bogging" issue, let's begin with the simple things that may be causing the problem. You might need a new "Fuel Filter," and a good cleaning of the "Throttle Body." Click here for a Video on cleaning the "Throttle Body," http://youtu.be/41yFXjibtLY . You stated the "Ignition Coil," has been replaced twice, this leads me in the direction that you may need to change the "Distributor Cap and Rotor." Any of these simple things could be the cause of the "Bogging." If after checking, replacing and cleaning the above mentioned items the "Bogging," continues, than you'll need to take a look at the "The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve." The "Carbon" build-up inside this valve can cause "Bogging," and poor engine performance. Usually a good "Cleaning," will restore and re-establish good engine operation. To give you an idea of the cleaning process click here, http://youtu.be/UNTBkXWC2A8 . Finally if all fails, and the "Bogging," continues, than it has to be the "Fuel Pressure Regulator," is "Leaking," or one of the "Poppet Nozzles," has gone bad and also leaking. If you're not familiar with how the "Fuel Injection System," operates I would strongly suggest a "Qualified Mechanic," handle this situation. To see the work involved, click here, http://youtu.be/cpWjF1NRfk8 . In any event begin with the simply things like the "Fuel Filter," and cleaning of the "Throttle Body," and or replacing the "Distributor Cap and Rotor," before moving on to the more complex areas of trouble-shooting. Good Luck ... Study hard "Test" on Monday !
What is the location of the battery on a 1997 GMC step van?
I looked everywhere including the engine compartment, in the hide away compartment underneath the steps, underneath the other hideaway compartment by the driver's seat, and in the cargo area. Did I overlook something?
How do you use a car cigarette lighter as a charger?
Most modern vehicles have the cigarette lighter socket only live when the ignition is on. It is very simple to change this to a constant fused feed, but make sure that no children could put a cigarette lighter in the socket and start a fire or burn themselves, as this was the primary reason that cigarette lighters in cars were changed to the accessory circuit quite a few years ago. A lot of cars have a ‘power’ socket which is compatible with the same plugs and these are often live all the time as they are great for inspection lamps, vacuum cleaners etc. . To use this method to charge the car battery is simply a matter of wiring your battery charger of whatever type to a cigarette lighter plug, but if your charging source is a high capacity (high current) source such as another car battery or high capacity charger it is essential that you have a fuse in the circuit of no more than 10 amps.Bear in mind that the tip of the plug on your charging lead is now at 12v+ and you would short your charging circuit if you grounded it anywhere, including to the outer part of the socket - so only activate the charging side AFTER the plug is connected.You can’t use this method for an immediate ‘jump start’, but 20 minutes of charge from a good source should enable enough charge to start a car if the battery was low. If you simply want a method of connecting a trickle charger, either mains or solar, there are OBD2 charging connectors available which go into the diagnostic port and in which case you don’t need to modify any wiring.
Why do you have to change a car's alternator when changing the battery?
Well, three possibilities here.One. You alternator failed, killing the battery. Replace the battery, test the alternator. You can't test an alternator with a failed battery. Start the car with the new battery, voltage should go up from 12.5ish to 13–14 volt range.Rev the engine slightly (2500–3000 rpm). Turn on all the electricals, lights, air conditioning, etc. If the voltage drops below 12.8 for more than a second, look at replacing the alternator. It should spring back to 13ish.Often alternators will have a modular regulator. Most parts shops can test and determine if the alternator itself is blown, or if it's just the regulator. The brushes may be gone, and are sometimes integral to the regulator. Either way, it's cheaper than a full alternator.If the alternator is bad — doesn't make voltage; or is weak — doesn't hold voltage: then fix or replace it with the battery.Check the feed cables and battery connections on the off chance they're bad. You should do this regardless.Two. This is a low probability. Your battery failed, killing the alternator. This can happen in the case I forget a dead short in one of the cells of the battery, or a near total loss of liquid in your battery. Either way the battery case will likely be distorted, or even cracked. It will have a voltage less than 9. It may even stink of rotten eggs, with a slight taste of chewing on foil.Three. Your mechanic is a liar and a thief who's trying to get more money out of your pocket and into his. If he says that you have to replace the alternator because the battery is bad, this is the case.
My car won't start after metal touching positive post and it smoked. Could it just be the battery or something else?
First check all your fuse’s , yes every last one of them , most cars have a large fuse panel under the hood as well as in the passenger compartment, An then you also have what's called a “ Fusible Link “ , These are normally located going to High Amp Circuits , in your car , i.e. The starter , the alt , the fuse panels , Modern Cars have dozens of these Fusible Links , An they have different ratings that depends on the wire size going to that Component ( I think there are about 6 different gauges / sizes ). What happens when in your case a Direct Short , occurs it protects the wiring An various other electric components in your car ,, they melt down when large amounts of current pass thru them , most are covered in a Fire Resistance shrink tubing type material, An they are soldered on to the wiring of the various components , So grab your self a VOM Tester , or a Test Light use one for Computer Circuits - The VOM Meter would be a better choice , An starting looking for where there is no power where there should be power going , There's a old joke We Mechanics have - wires carry smoke thru them An when you let the smoke out there no good anymore, Good Luck , An hey don't let anymore smoke outta them wires , oh An if you find out it is a fusible link - don't let the Clown at the parts store try An sell you a 25 foot roll of it , tell them you only need like a foot ( 12 inches ) of it OK , An if they tell you otherwise go to another parts store as they are idiots ,