What is wrong with the brakes on one's car if the car's brake pedal goes down a lot farther than it should?
First, don't just let fluid drain out of one of the bleeders. If you open the brake system at all, bleed it properly and get all the air out.If you see brake fluid coming out of the calipers (disk) or wheel cylinders (drum) in any place other than the bleeder for that wheel, then suspect a bad caliper or cylinder. A leaky cylinder is likely to leak fluid from the gap between the brake backing plate and the drum, looking like a dog lifted its leg on the tire sidewall.After bleeding your brakes, start the car (assuming power brakes) and push hard on the pedal to test the brake lines against bursting from rust. Now relax and just rest your foot on the brake pedal with moderate effort. Take careful note of the pedal's position. If the pedal slowly "fades" under your foot and you see no new leakage of fluid under the car, then you need to replace the master cylinder; it's leaking internally. The same holds true if the brake pedal fades quickly but doesn't leak, but if it fades quickly it should be leaking really visibly - an ounce or so of fluid per pedal pump.
What's wrong when you press your car's brake pedal but the car keeps going like it failed and stops after 3 seconds? You also feel that the pedal seems flat after pressing it, but won't do that if you don't brake suddenly.
Sounds like you have a bubble in the hydraulic brake lines and so don't do what I did and continue to drive to the point where they failed by the time I got home and had to use the transmission to stop the car then later attempt to fix it myself and almost ended up in my aunts bathroom! Have it towed to the shop!The money you save is nothing compared to the life or lives you save by having it done by a professional and make sure that you get a receipt in case he screws up he goes to jail not you IF you live.
What is wrong with my new brakes?
In many cases - it is normal for new brake pads to feel weak due to the softness of new pads. After a number of stops the pads "break-in" and become more normal however, If they continue to feel spongy - there may be a problem with air in the system, (gives the brakes a soft - spongy feeling)? Another concern is the "sticking when I push on the gas". It sounds as though the calipers or cylinders are not releasing as they should? This can also be, and more likely, a result of adjusting rear shoes too tight, (some need 4 clicks and some need 8 clicks back) If you have all or partial drum brakes the feeling with new brakes will be different because of the new adjustments and less wheel cylinder piston travel. This would explain the change when activating the hand brake since this action can also help adjust rear drum brakes. If the problem(s) continues after a few days - return the vehicle to the shoppe and tell them is does not feel right and explain.
My car's brakes have started squeaking? What could be wrong?
it depends are your brakes making noise when you apply them lightly and the sound goes away when you apply them heaver as if new brakes are used heavier them the surface become glazed it doesent affect the operation of the brakes but if you are still concerned take it back and get the mechanic to apply anti squeal to the brakes it comes in a aerosol can
What could be wrong with my car if the Emergency Brake Light statys on?
I have a Suzuki Sidekick, 1991, and the emergency brake light stays on even though the emergency brake is dis-engaged. The light is dimmer when the emergency brake is disengaged, but it stays lit.
What could be wrong with my car’s brakes? The brake warning light is on, and the brake goes to the floor.
Hi Cindy,In the very least you are out of brake fluid. However, even that is a concern because the fluid went somewhere, which means there is a leak.What this sounds like to me is a faulty master cylinder. In most vehicles there is a rod on the back of your brake pedal which pushes a small piston in a cylinder under the reservoir where the brake fluid is. This would be where you add brake fluid. The master cylinder would be located under the hood of your car, on the firewall (the part of your car’s body between where you sit and your engine compartment) about where your brake pedal is. Sometimes the seal around the piston in your master cylinder will fail and your pedal will push to the floor.Wheel cylinders are similar to the master cylinder. As the pedal is pressed and the piston in the master cylinder pushes the fluid, that pressure is transferred by small steel tubes to each wheel..where the wheel cylinder (or caliper on disk brakes which is basically a wheel cylinder set up right) which has two smaller pistons in a tube that utilize the pressure created by the master cylinder to push the brake shoes apart to create friction on the inside of the drum…thereby stopping your car (or brake pads together against the rotor).I would be reluctant to drive the car at all at this point. I have driven many vehicles with no brakes and it is scary to be sitting in a machine going X miles per hour with no way of slowing or stopping…except turning the key off, or using the emergency brake.
What's wrong with my car!? HELP! NO BRAKES, SPUTTERING ENGINE!?
wait a minute! Hold on you have 2 Completely different issues going on here. The sputtering is from a misfire probably and the brakes are because your MC is going bad. Or your low on Fluid. Get that car sorted because if you crash due to the MC issue you will be sued
What's wrong with my car? Brake pedal depresses under my foot when I'm stopped and car starts rolling.?
In the past week or so, I've been stopped at red lights and noticed my brake pedal kind of sinking into the ground below my foot, while the car kind of starts rolling forward (like I'm releasing the brake, but I'm not). After I pump it a couple times the it will stop again, but it's pretty scary and now I'm afraid my brakes will not work when I need them too and I'll get into an accident. The car is a 1996 Toyota Camry so it's definitely old and I was planning on shopping for a new one towards the end of the year anyway so I'm not planning on sinking a lot of money into it. Does anyone know what is causing this and how much it would be to make it stop? If it's a relatively routine thing (New brake pads??? I have no idea) I'll get it done, but if it's expensive I'm just going to buy another car. Thanks.
My car makes really strange noises when i brake, whats wrong...?
I don't think your brakes are all that sound if they are making the noises you describe. Quick Check: Look at the brake calipers on your front wheels that hold the brake pads. There is a small metal tab that extends out and perpendicular to the brake rotor. That's the wear sensor and it makes noise to let you know when the pads have to be replaced. Same deal if you have rear disc brakes, otherwise for rear wheels you have to remove the wheels and pull the brake drums off to see the problem. Rear brakes don't usually wear as fast as front disc brakes, but they can accumulate brake dust as the pads wear and with sufficient buildup can cause noises. Rule of thumb here - Unless you are Fred Flintstone, when the brakes start making noises get them to a shop and get them fixed. Otherwise find something soft to hit when your brakes fail. Hopefully the impact won't kill you... Oh yeah, as for that long trip - get the brakes fixed first. Ya just never know when some moron will do something stupid right in front of you and require emergency braking. Not really the time to have your brakes fail on you...
What is wrong with my GM car? A new front brake assembly was just installed and now it feels like the anti-lock braking system kicks in frequently at slow speeds and dry conditions.
This is a very common problem on any half ton trucks, GM, Ford or Dodge products.Not so much on cars but it can happen.When you get an ABS event on dry roads and at slow speeds that means that one or more wheel speed sensors do not “see” that the wheel is still turning and “lie” to the control module and so the brake pressure is released.In aforementioned trucks 99% of the time this is caused by corrosion between the sensor and the housing of the wheel bearing where the tone ring resides. It only happens at slow speeds because at slow speeds less magnetic input is generated.It is fairly easy to diagnose which sensor is at fault by driving on a flat surface and applying the brakes and not holding on to the steering wheel. When the false ABS event occurs the steering wheel will turn in the direction of the healthy sensor. So if the steering wheels jerks to the left, your problem is on the right.The other cause could be a damaged tone ring . Often they crack or come loose .